Discovering Historic Dwellings
What most attracts visitors among the wonders of Palermo is undoubtedly the beauty of some villas and noble palaces. From the 18th century, the desire began in Palermo’s aristocratic milieu to build residences outside the city walls, surrounded by nature, for leisure and relaxation. The area chosen for the villas was Piana dei Colli, both because the Bagheria area was already full and because the climate of that flat land was always mild and pleasant.
Villa Niscemi, historic residence of the powerful Valguarnera family for about three centuries, was built on a 17th-century agricultural baglio (a fortified farm) and later used as a hunting lodge, given its proximity to the Real Parco della Favorita, where the Bourbon dynasty loved to hunt. In its rooms, the Valguarnera family hosted Ferdinand IV and Maria Carolina of Austria, kicking off the villa’s golden age: the exteriors were renovated and decorated with late 18th-century motifs, and the interiors enriched with damasks and works of art. These include an important painting depicting Emperor Charlemagne handing over the family coat of arms. Today the ancient residence, located in Piazza Niscemi, is home to some of the City Council’s representative offices and can be visited upon reservation, from Monday to Saturday, from 09:00 to 12:30 and on Sundays and holidays from 09:00 to 13:00. Admission is free.
Villa Scalea, on Via Scordia, is one of the best-preserved villas. It was commissioned in 1717 by the Prince of Scordia Giuseppe Branciforte, who was able to transform a Jesuit church on the Cassaro into a large and stunning residence, surrounded by a garden full of exotic and rare plants. Towards the end of the 19th century, it was inherited by Francesco Lanza e Spinelli, Prince of Scalea, from whom it takes its name. It is currently a great venue for conferences, weddings and photo shoots. Another Palermo gem is Villa Bordonaro ai Colli, in Via del Fante, famous for having hosted Ferdinand III and his bride Carolina during their exile in Sicily. Inside, it houses a wonderful collection of works by Canaletto, Titian and Arcimboldo, while outside there are centuries-old trees such as dwarf palms, giant agaves and Ficus magnolia. The garden is also adorned with statues and ponds. It is currently the residence of Barons Chiaromonte Bordonaro, who often open the villa to private and public events. Lastly, Villa Boscogrande, built by the Duke of Montalbo in 1768 following the architectural influences of the imposing French palace of Versailles, is certainly worth a mention. Director Luchino Visconti, fascinated by this mansion on Via Tommaso Natale, chose this spot to shoot the opening scenes of Il Gattopardo, based on the novel by Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa.
Palermo‘s history also involves its noble palaces, treasure troves filled with works of art and testimonies of great cultural value. You can start your journey among these gems from the Palazzo Mirto, on Via Merlo, in the heart of the historical centre. The palace was for centuries inhabited by the Filangieri, one of the most important Norman families, and is furnished with Murano chandeliers, porcelain, tapestries, clocks, ceramics, majolica and panels. The museum is open Tuesday to Saturday from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. and on Sundays and holidays from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. In Piazza Croce dei Vespri, we find Palazzo Valguarnera, one of the greatest examples of Sicilian Rococo, strongly desired by Prince Pietro Valguarnera and built in the 18th century. The significant ballroom scene of Visconti’s Il Gattopardo was filmed in its reception hall. These rooms also owe their magnificence to the work of great artists such as Serenario, Fumagalli, Marabitti, Velasco and Interguglielmi. The site can be visited by making a reservation by calling 091 616 2718, for groups of no less than 20 people.
Also worth visiting in the city centre is Palazzo Ajutamicristo, named after the baron of Misilmeri and Calatafimi Guglielmo Ajutamicristo. Built between 1496 and 1501, it was the favourite destination of influential figures such as Queen Joan, Emperor Charles V, King Muley Hassan of Tunis and Don John of Austria, winner of the Battle of Lepanto. The stately residence is now inhabited by the Calefati barons, who have converted some rooms into a delightful B&B. However, a part of the building is owned by the Region of Sicily and the Superintendency of Cultural Heritage. This area of the palace houses works by Ignazio Marabitti, Domenico Gagini and the two Mellerio stelae commissioned to Antonio Canova. In the exhibition rooms there is a collection of Martorana Genuardi’s carriages.
Palazzo Chiaramonte-Steri, in Piazza Marina, was the residence of the Spanish Viceroys in 1571 and later of the Royal Customs. From 1600 to 1782, it was the seat of the Inquisition tribunal. Not to be missed is the Sala Magna with its paintings on the wooden ceiling, made between 1377 and 1380. The main themes include the celebration of women, tournaments of chivalry and a strong attachment to religion. Graffiti of prisoners, imprisoned under the Ancien Régime, and imprisoned women accused of witchcraft are preserved in the prisons of the Steri. Today it houses the Rectorate of the University of Palermo. A shining example of Gothic-Catalan architecture can be seen at the Palazzo Abatellis, on Via Alloro. The building was the residence of the Kingdom’s master Portulano, Francesco Abatellis and, after the death of his wife, was given to a group of nuns who established a monastery in 1526: Santa Maria della Pietà. In some of the rooms, many pieces of art are on display, such as those by Pietro Novelli, Domenico and Antonello Gagini, Vito d’Anna, Filippo Paladini and Antoon Van Dyck. The museum is open Tuesday to Friday from 09.00 to 18.00 and on Saturdays and Sundays from 09.00 to 13.00.